Silk production in India

Silk production, or sericulture, is one of India’s oldest and most valued cottage industries, representing a unique blend of agriculture and industry. India is the second-largest producer of silk in the world, after China, and the only country that produces all five known commercial varieties of silk — mulberry, tasar, eri, muga, and oak tasar. The sector provides employment to millions of rural families, especially women, and contributes to the country’s export earnings and textile heritage.

Historical Background

Silk production in India dates back several thousand years, with references found in ancient texts such as the Rigveda and Arthashastra. The art of silk weaving flourished during the Mauryan and Gupta periods and reached its zenith during the Mughal era. Traditional silk centres such as Mysuru, Varanasi, Bhagalpur, and Kanchipuram became famous for their exquisite silk fabrics and craftsmanship. Today, sericulture continues to thrive as both a traditional occupation and a modern agro-based enterprise.

Major Silk Varieties Produced in India

India’s diverse climate and geography allow the production of multiple silk varieties:

1. Mulberry Silk
   • Share: Accounts for over 70 per cent of India’s total silk output.
   • Regions: Predominantly produced in Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, West Bengal, and Jammu & Kashmir.
   • Characteristics: Smooth, lustrous, and fine in texture; used in high-quality fabrics like Kanchipuram, Mysore, and Banarasi silk.
   • Silkworm species: Bombyx mori feeds exclusively on mulberry leaves.
2. Tasar (Tussar) Silk
   • Share: Around 15–17 per cent of national silk production.
   • Regions: Found in Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, and West Bengal, often in forest-based tribal areas.
   • Characteristics: Coarse, textured, and golden in colour; valued for its natural sheen and durability.
   • Silkworm species: Antheraea mylitta, which feeds on forest trees like Terminalia arjuna and Asan.
3. Eri Silk
   • Share: Around 10 per cent of total production.
   • Regions: Majorly produced in the Northeastern states (Assam, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Arunachal Pradesh).
   • Characteristics: Also known as peace silk, as the cocoon is spun after the moth emerges. Soft, warm, and suitable for winter garments.
   • Silkworm species: Samia ricini, which feeds on castor and kesseru plants.
4. Muga Silk
   • Share: Less than 2 per cent but highly prestigious.
   • Regions: Exclusive to Assam and parts of Meghalaya.
   • Characteristics: Naturally golden-yellow and extremely durable; often used in traditional Assamese attire such as mekhela chador.
   • Silkworm species: Antheraea assamensis, which feeds on som and soalu leaves.
5. Oak Tasar Silk
   • Regions: Cultivated in temperate Himalayan regions such as Manipur, Himachal Pradesh, and Uttarakhand.
   • Characteristics: Similar to Tasar silk but produced from silkworms feeding on oak leaves.

Major Silk-Producing States

India’s silk production is geographically diverse. The leading states include:

The southern states dominate mulberry silk, while the eastern and northeastern regions lead in non-mulberry silks.

Production Trends

• India’s total silk production has surpassed 35,000 metric tonnes per year, accounting for nearly 20 per cent of global silk output.
• Karnataka alone contributes over one-third of the total mulberry silk produced in the country.
• The Central Silk Board (CSB), under the Ministry of Textiles, coordinates research, training, and development of sericulture across states.
• India has achieved self-sufficiency in raw silk production, significantly reducing dependence on imports.

Process of Silk Production

The production of silk involves several key stages:

1. Silkworm Rearing:
   • Silkworm eggs are hatched and larvae are fed on mulberry or host plant leaves.
   • The larvae spin cocoons made of silk fibre within 25–30 days.
2. Cocoon Harvesting:
   • Mature cocoons are collected for reeling. For most varieties, cocoons are boiled to extract silk filament; for eri silk, the moth is allowed to emerge naturally.
3. Reeling and Spinning:
   • Raw silk threads are unwound from cocoons using traditional or mechanised reeling devices.
   • The threads are twisted, dyed, and woven into fabrics.
4. Weaving and Finishing:
   • Skilled artisans weave silk into various textiles such as sarees, scarves, and upholstery materials.

Economic and Social Significance

• Employment: Sericulture provides direct and indirect employment to over 8 million people, primarily in rural areas.
• Women Empowerment: Over 60 per cent of the workforce in the sector comprises women engaged in cocoon production, spinning, and weaving.
• Exports: Silk and silk products are important export commodities, with major markets in Europe, the United States, and the Middle East.
• Rural Development: As a low-investment, high-value crop, sericulture plays a key role in poverty alleviation and rural income generation.

Government Support and Development Programmes

1. Central Silk Board (CSB): The apex body responsible for promoting and regulating sericulture in India through research, training, and development projects.
2. Integrated Sericulture Development Projects (ISDPs): Focus on expanding mulberry plantations, silkworm seed production, and reeling infrastructure.
3. Silk Samagra Scheme: A comprehensive programme aimed at boosting production, enhancing quality, and promoting sericulture entrepreneurship.
4. North East Region Textile Promotion Scheme (NERTPS): Specifically targets the growth of eri and muga silk industries in the Northeastern states.
5. Cluster Development Approach: Supports localised silk production units with common facilities for reeling, dyeing, and marketing.

Challenges Facing Silk Production

• Climate Sensitivity: Silkworms are highly sensitive to temperature and humidity fluctuations.
• Diseases and Pests: Frequent outbreaks affect cocoon quality and yield.
• Competition from Synthetic Fibres: The popularity of artificial silk and polyester affects market demand.
• Price Fluctuations: Unstable raw silk prices impact the profitability of producers.
• Technological Gaps: Many small farmers rely on traditional methods with low productivity.

Future Prospects

The prospects for silk production in India remain strong due to rising domestic demand, export potential, and government support. Future growth will depend on:

• Development of disease-resistant silkworm varieties.
• Adoption of modern reeling and weaving technologies.
• Strengthening marketing and export infrastructure.
• Promotion of eco-friendly and organic sericulture.
• Enhancing training and skill development for rural youth and women.